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clutch motor
Duffo, first many thanks for the kind words from your two previous posters. Sometimes you fix them and they don't bother to tell you, just go on their merry way. Your problem is idle RPM being too fast. You will never get the driven clutch to stop turning, but lowering the idle speed will let you shift the transaxle. I shoot for 1050 RPM,(Deere calls for 1100)but 1050 seems to work well. If you don't have a tach, go to tinytach.com, get their phone number and call them. There is a lady there that is very helpful and can tell you which one to get. As far as your serial number, look on the upper frame rail under the passenger seat. The number should be etched in the frame under a plastic cover. Your number should be WOO6X4XOO????. If it isn't there, you have an old one '93 probably. I think the tech manual you need is TM1516. You probably have an AS-11 motor and they have a completely different carb linkage and governor set up.
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clutch motor
Yes, your clutch is a centrifugal type. If you are idling your motor down until it stalls and the drive clutch is not unloading enough to let the belt rest on the center post between the sheaves,then you have some major drive clutch problems. You need a clutch tool to get it off, and a clutch tool kit to get the clutch apart. Sounds like you have a broken center spring and Iam sure your rollers are flat spotted. If the movable sheave is loose on the center post when you rock it side to side, it's probably not worth fixing. As far as distance between the clutches, that is not adjustable. Also you should have a rod that goes from the transaxle to the motor to hold both in place under acceleration.
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clutch motor
The spyder is threaded (screwed)onto the post of the stationary sheave. The movable sheave's flyweights ride up the spyder's rollers as RPMs increase. There is a spring that holds the sheaves apart that is probably broken on your clutch. That allows the sheaves to move together and essentially start the shifting process prematurely. The clutch kit has a tapered piece that you put in a vise to hold the clutch so you can take the spyder off. It also has the threaded puller to get it off the crank. A dealer is the only place to get the kit, unless you could talk them into lending ( or renting ) you a kit.
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clutch motor
Your present clutch is the 15.5 MPH version and if you buy a new one it will be the 18 MPH, so you pick up almost 3 MPH in the deal. All the 6x4 gas clutches will fit and work except for the TH version. You don't have to know your serial number. New clutches are around 300.00 There is a guy on line that sells used parts too. Your secondary clutch could be bound up also. The sleeve inside the 3 cam helix could be seized to,or bound up on,the post on the stationary sheave. Also check the 3 plastic buttons that ride on the helix angles, one or more of them could be missing.Iam also detecting another problem in your post. Your Gator is not supposed to start when it's in gear. I guess your former owner disabled the neutral switch because the clutch didn't work.
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clutch motor
The clutch puller is actually a long bolt that threads into the center of the clutch and bottoms out on the crank. Be sure to grease the end of it before you use it, they work much better. I don't know of any three pronged puller associated with a Gator. Did you look under the passenger seat for your serial number? Sometimes they are hard to see, but are usually there. IT's on the frame rail next to the radiator top.
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clutch motor
If you have grinder marks on the frame next to the top of the radiator, I would say you have a better than 90% chance that you have a hot Gator. If you would happen to find out what the number is and go into a dealer with it to buy parts and he puts it in the data base. If it is hot, the dealer is obligated to turn you in. As soon as Deere matches that number with a stolen Gator ( a matter of minutes )The dealer gets a phone call and he has to persue you. On top of that Deere can confiscate the Gator and you are out your purchase price. Deere takes it very seriously. I believe this is only if it was stolen from a dealership, but I wouldn't want to take the chance. I would listen to KW and make it right, either with the guy you bought it from or the cops or both.
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clutch motor
Not surprising there is no number left on the frame, they weren't imprinted very deeply in the first place. Deere is supposed to have a web site for stolen Gators, but since you can't ID yours thru the engine serial number or any other way, the site would be of no use to you. Nice of the dealer to lend you a puller. Clutch rollers are not available, you have to buy the whole spyder, around 130.00 I would check the play between the movable sheave and the post on the stationary sheave before I bought a spyder. If there is alot of play there the clutch will rattle like crazy, make you think a rod is coming out of the motor.
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clutch motor
1 1/2 thousandths ain't much. I never measured that way, I just put them together and push down on the movable sheave and rock it back and forth on the post. If it rocks alot it's gonna rattle. What I was getting from your posts was the clutch was half way engaged or not opening all the way up at idle. That either means the spring isn't strong enough to push the sheaves apart or the sheaves are binding up to the point that the spring can't push them apart. Maybe your spring is broken and the dude that had it before you took the broken piece out and put it back together, and now your spring isn't long enough to push the sheaves apart. When you screw that spyder on the post, you should have enough spring pressure to snap the movable sheave back to wide open. When you put it together, try running the motor without a belt on it and see if it snaps open and shut. Then put the belt on and run the motor up sitting still and see if the clutches work. The driven clutch is supposed to keep the belt tight all the time. If the belt is getting loose anywhere in the RPM range the driven clutch should be looked at. A couple things on the rollers. If they slide and don't roll up the flyweights that robs engine power to make the clutch work right. As the rollers get flat spots in them the flyweights start to seat in the flat spots. As they get worse the sheaves start moving apart and you have to increase RPM to get the Gator to move. When it does move, it jumps into a higher gear right away because of the higher RPM and puts a strain on the rest of the drive train. Sheaves being scored shouldn't hurt it. I don't know why you are getting posts more than once. I'm only sending once.
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clutch motor
I think the belt is notched because of the severe angle it has to travel around the drive clutch at take off. Notches give more ability to turn on a sharp angle. They used to be solid, but I guess engineering changed them.
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clutch motor
Duffo, Here's what you do. Remove the valve cores from the two rear tires on your Gator. unhook either the prop rod or the top end of the dump unit, which ever applies to you and stand the bed up and let it go over center and rest against the frame and wallah!!!! no more headaches. I don't know why I tell you guys this stuff. Your starter drive is bad. Starter drives are around 90.00 and you need a stop too, don't forget that. You will ruin yours getting it off.
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clutch motor
18MM on the nuts for the hubs. The neutral switch is screwed into the top of the transaxle. When you put it in neutral a button on the linkage inside the transaxle hits the plunger on the switch and closes it. This creates a path for ground to the start relay so when the ign. switch goes to start the start relay pulls. The switch you think is the neutral switch is either the switch that lights the light for the emergency brake indicator, or the Gator used to have a back-up alarm on it, and it's a switch for that.
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If you have an AS-11 motor your chassis number can be no newer than W006X4X014949 so if you give them a number with the last five under 14949 your parts should be right. A wiring diagram for a 6x4 should be all the same.
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